Board and Batten in a Farming Town Built to Take Weather
Lynden's mix of century-old farmhouses, newer subdivisions, and barns and outbuildings gives board and batten siding a natural home here. The vertical lines read as agricultural and Northwest at the same time, which is why the style shows up on so many homes and outbuildings around town. But board and batten is also one of the least forgiving siding profiles when it's installed wrong, and Whatcom County's climate is not gentle on vertical seams. Get the details right and it's one of the best-looking, longest-lasting sidings you can put on a Lynden home. Get them wrong and you're looking at rot, staining, and panel failure years before it should happen.
What Board and Batten Actually Is
Board and batten siding is built from wide flat panels installed vertically, with narrower strips — the battens — covering the seams between them. Historically it was a way to cover joints on barns and simple structures with minimal material. Today it's a deliberate architectural choice: the vertical lines add height and a farmhouse or modern-rustic look that horizontal lap siding doesn't give you. The style works on a full elevation, as an accent on gables and dormers, or mixed with lap siding on the same house.

What Whatcom County Weather Does to Vertical Siding
Whatcom County sits where Pacific storm systems come ashore, and Lynden gets its share of driving, wind-blown rain even though it's set back from the coast. Add in air that carries salt from the Salish Sea and Bellingham Bay, and a wet season that runs long enough to grow moss on roofs, fences, and north-facing siding for months at a stretch, and you have a climate that tests every seam, joint, and cut edge on a house.
Why Vertical Seams Behave Differently Than Horizontal Lap
Lap siding is designed so gravity does most of the work — each course overlaps the one below it and sheds water down and out. Board and batten runs the seams vertically, which means water tracks straight down the joint between board and batten instead of being shed sideways. If that joint isn't detailed correctly, with the proper gap, proper flashing, and a real drainage plane behind it, water finds the seam, sits against it, and starts working on whatever material is behind the batten. On a driving-rain day, wind can also push water sideways into those vertical joints, which is exactly the kind of weather Lynden sees several months a year.
Why We Only Install This in James Hardie Fiber Cement
We install board and batten siding in James Hardie fiber cement exclusively. We don't offer it in vinyl, LP SmartSide, Cemplank, Allura, primed spruce, or cedar, and that's a deliberate standard, not a lack of options.
Vinyl board and batten panels are lightweight and affordable, but they're also thin plastic that expands and contracts with temperature and can bow or separate at the battens over time — a problem that shows up more, not less, on a profile that depends on tight, straight seams. LP SmartSide is an engineered wood product with an OSB-based core; it holds up reasonably well on flat lap runs, but board and batten means more cut edges and more exposed joints, and any wood-based product is only as good as the sealing on every one of those cuts, forever. Cedar looks right for a farmhouse but it's a natural, absorbent material that needs regular refinishing and is exactly the kind of surface that grows moss and algae fastest in a climate like this one. Primed spruce boards are essentially unfinished lumber with a coat of primer — they need a full paint job before they're weather-ready, then repainting on a cycle after that.
Fiber cement doesn't carry those weaknesses. It's dimensionally stable, it doesn't swell at cut edges the way wood-based panels can, it's non-combustible, and it takes a factory finish that doesn't depend on a crew's paint job in the field to perform. That's why board and batten, on the homes we work on, means James Hardie — nothing else leaves our trucks.
Hardie's Board and Batten System
James Hardie builds this look two ways: true board and batten using HardiePanel vertical siding with HardieTrim battens over the seams, or a single-piece vertical panel that reads as board and batten without separate batten strips. Both come through in the ColorPlus finish line, baked on and cured at the factory rather than field-painted, and both are available in the HZ5 formulation engineered for the Pacific Northwest's wet climate rather than the hotter, drier HZ10 formulation sold in other regions. That distinction matters more in Whatcom County than almost anywhere else Hardie sells.
What a Correct Board and Batten Installation Involves
The material is only half the job. Board and batten fails or succeeds based on details most homeowners never see once the siding is up. A correct install includes a proper weather-resistive barrier under the panels, a drainage gap (commonly furring strips or a rainscreen product) so any water that gets behind the siding has somewhere to go, and precise spacing at every panel and batten joint so the material can expand and contract without buckling or cracking the caulk line.
- Weather-resistive barrier installed and lapped correctly before any siding goes up
- Furring strips or a rainscreen gap behind the panels for drainage and back-ventilation
- Manufacturer-specified gaps at panel and batten joints, not tight-butted seams
- Flashing at every horizontal transition — window and door heads, belly bands, roof lines
- Battens fastened per Hardie's nailing schedule, not just wherever they line up visually
- Bottom starter strip and proper clearance off the foundation, deck, and grade
- Factory-matched caulking and touch-up materials used only where the manufacturer allows it
Skip the drainage gap or get the flashing wrong at a window head, and board and batten will trap water exactly where you can't see it — behind the battens, against the sheathing. That's the failure we get called out to fix most often on this profile, and it's almost always an installation shortcut, not a material problem.
Comparing Board and Batten Material Options
Homeowners researching this style usually come across several materials marketed for it. Here's how they stack up on the factors that matter in a Whatcom County climate.
| Material | Moisture behavior | Moss/algae resistance | Maintenance | Typical lifespan |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Vinyl board and batten | Doesn't rot, but panels can warp or bow with temperature swings | Fair — surface can hold moss in shaded, damp spots | Low, but panels can't be repainted a different color | Moderate, shorter under harsh coastal exposure |
| LP SmartSide | Wood-based core, vulnerable at cut edges and unsealed joints | Fair with regular upkeep | Moderate — cut edges and seams need ongoing attention | Depends heavily on installation and upkeep |
| Cedar | Absorbent natural wood; needs finish maintained to resist moisture | Low — one of the fastest materials to grow moss and algae here | High — periodic refinishing or staining required | Shorter without disciplined upkeep |
| Primed spruce | Unfinished lumber; primer is a starting point, not a finish | Low until fully painted and maintained | High — full paint job required, then repainting on a cycle | Shorter without a strong maintenance routine |
| James Hardie fiber cement | Dimensionally stable; engineered HZ5 formulation for wet climates | High — factory finish and cement composition resist growth better | Low — occasional wash, no refinishing on the ColorPlus schedule | Long-term when installed to spec, backed by a transferable warranty |
Our Process for Lynden Homeowners
We start with a walk-around of the house, not just a measurement. On an existing home, that means checking what's happening behind the current siding where we can — moisture readings at the bottom courses, condition of the trim, how the roofline and gutters are shedding water onto the walls below. Board and batten in particular needs a good look at where horizontal surfaces meet vertical siding, since that's where flashing decisions get made.
From there we plan the drainage gap and flashing details before a single panel goes up, order the Hardie products and colors, and schedule the work around a stretch of workable weather — vertical panel installation in wet weather isn't something we rush just to hit a date. On tear-off jobs we also deal with whatever the old siding left behind: moss and algae staining on the sheathing, soft spots at the bottom plate, and any trim that needs replacing before new siding goes over it.
Living With Board and Batten Through a Long Moss Season
Whatcom County's wet season runs long, and moss doesn't need much encouragement to take hold on north-facing walls, under eaves, and anywhere tree cover keeps siding shaded and damp. A few habits keep board and batten looking right through that stretch:
- Keep gutters clear so water sheets off the roof instead of running down the wall
- Trim back tree canopy that keeps a wall shaded and damp for weeks at a time
- Rinse siding periodically, especially north and west elevations, rather than letting moss establish
- Check caulking at seams and trim yearly and have any gaps addressed before winter
Hardie's ColorPlus finish resists moss and algae better than raw wood or unfinished material, and it doesn't need repainting on the schedule cedar or primed spruce does — but no siding is maintenance-free in a climate this wet, and a little attention each fall goes a long way.
Why It Matters That We Already Work in Lynden
Board and batten installed correctly in Whatcom County looks the same as board and batten installed correctly anywhere — the difference shows up over the following winters, not on install day. A crew that already works Lynden knows which elevations catch the worst of the wind-driven rain, how far moss creeps down a shaded gable by February, and how the local building department wants flashing and clearances detailed. That local knowledge doesn't replace following the manufacturer's installation spec — it's what makes following that spec matter in the conditions this particular house sits in.
If you're weighing board and batten for a Lynden home, we're glad to walk the property with you, talk through what the style would look like on your house, and put together a straightforward, no-pressure estimate — just fill out the form below.
Whatcom County